How a new acne movement is saving face(s)

If you’ve ever experienced a skin breakout, you’ll know perfectly well that instinct to want to reach for a concealer and cover up the offending spot with the magic of makeup. God forbid it was more than a single zit, because the more severe forms of acne – inflamed red spots that literally take over your face and give you the appearance of having come out on the wrong side of a battle with a hornet’s nest – have the power to make you want to cancel all your appointments and just stay home. That’s because stepping out with such unsightly blemishes has always been unthinkable… well, at least, that was the case, pre-2018.

The current skin positivity movement, however, has been gaining such ground that it’s making the beauty industry do a veritable volte-face. Pimples are now neither gorgeous nor ghastly – they’re normal. And, surprisingly, it’s the industry’s own models and influencers we have to thank for kickstarting this debate. Hashtags like #FreeThePimple (more on that in a bit) have been around for a few years now, but it was Kendall Jenner (she of Keeping Up With The Kardashians fame) boldly taking to the Golden Globes red carpet with zits in January this year that really shone the spotlight on what’s now being hailed as pimple positivity.

The 22-year-old model’s journey with acne is one she’s addressed before. In a post to her fans on her website about three years ago, the InstaGirl spoke of how her “terrible” acne completely ruined her self-esteem. “I wouldn’t even look at people when I talked to them,” she wrote. “I felt like such an outcast; when I spoke, it was with my hand covering my face.” Today, she knows better and her tweet in January encouraging a fan to “never let that s*** stop you” went viral as the ‘perfect response to skin-shaming trolls’ everywhere.

According to Dr Fady G Haddad, chief dermatologist at Shamma Clinic in Jumeirah, roughly 80-90 per cent of people will experience “at least one form” of acne in their lifetime. It’s a condition he sees daily in his practice – and it is definitely women that outnumber men in seeking medical help for the condition, he notes. Although most prevalent during adolescence, the incidence of acne in adult women is currently on the rise – a phenomenon he attributes to multiple factors, including increased stress levels, excessive use of makeup and, of course, hormonal fluctuations.

“Without a doubt, acne brings with it a lot of emotional distress and can have a significant impact on quality of life,” he says. “Adult female patients often report frustration, embarrassment and distress over their acne, and it tends to affect the self-esteem of older women more than younger ones.” The media has only exacerbated the problem in the past, he adds.

“The power of media – whether online or on TV – has increased the standards [of what beauty should look like], so people often aspire to look just like the actors and public figures with impeccable skin that they see in showbiz,” he says. “Imagine, I’ve even had influencers come in, who desired the smooth, glowing and ‘blemish-less’ skin of other influencers! I always have to remind them that there are such things as makeup and Photoshop.”

So deeply entwined is this desire for flawless skin with patients’ self-esteem that Dr Fady often finds himself playing the role of counsellor as well. “I try to explain that a woman who has duties at home or work, or both, cannot – and should not – try to compete with those who are less active, have more time to sleep and visit spas, and have house help. Is it not more positive to have acne with an active, interesting life rather than flawless skin with a dull or unproductive life?”

At times, the pep talk works; at times, some cases are so psychologically affected that Dr Fady suggests they consider seeking the help of a psychologist or life coach to help them regain their confidence. “Not everyone appreciates the advice though. Hence, the concept of pimple positivity comes in handy and should be reinforced.”

FACING FACTS: (from left to right) Dr Fady G Haddad; Louisa Northcote; Nicole Rodrigues; Tehzeeb Huda

How a movement was born

It’s not that the subject of acne acceptance has not been broached before. Celebrities like Emma Stone and Cameron Diaz have spoken out about their own struggles with the skin condition in interviews since 2012. But framed within the context of the current body positivity movement, offshoots like skin positivity and pimple positivity are finding much more traction than they have in the past – and they’re being spearheaded by influencers, even ones haven’t attained ‘superstar’ status yet.

Model Louisa Northcote started the #FreeThePimple movement last year as a pre-emptive move, prior to her appearance on Britain’s Next Top Model. Tthe 21-year-old – who was schooled in Dubai but is currently based in London – suffers from painful, chronic acne that leaves her with red marks all over. The first episode of the reality TV modelling show required all the contestants to appear makeup-free – and it terrified the youngster to be baring her “biggest insecurity” to the world. Worried about the potentially nasty things people might say once they saw the episode, she decided to “take control of the narrative” by posting a makeup-free selfie on Instagram and narrating her story in her own words. And that’s how #FreeThePimple was born.

What followed was an outpouring of support – not just from her 14,000-plus social media following, but from news and lifestyle publications around the world, including The Independent, Teen Vogue and Cosmopolitan. Louisa’s story of how her acne stopped her from carrying out the most mundane or regular activities – whether it was going to the shop less than a minute away, meeting her friends or going to school – is one that continues to resonate with readers who have been taking to social media to openly post their own ‘no filters’ and ‘no holds barred’ stories.

One might argue that while an international star like Kendall Jenner can get away with flaunting or “rocking” a skin breakout, it would be quite another matter for a regular Jane to try pulling the same stunt – especially in professional and social settings, or in cosmopolitan cities where the heavily image-conscious reside. To this, Louisa – who has, in the past, been called everything from ‘ugly’ to ‘crater face’ and ‘pizza face’ – points to society’s double standards: “Males who have acne don’t wear makeup and wouldn’t be asked to ‘cover up’ – so why should women?” she asks. “Skin shouldn’t offend people.”

That’s not to say that Louisa – or fellow advocates – will never use makeup again or shy away from medication and treatments that may help them achieve clear skin. The fashion student still wears makeup – simply because she enjoys experimenting with different beauty products – but she no longer uses it as a “mask or armour”. Thanks to a brand-new perspective, she’s equally unafraid to step out makeup-free now. “Acne is just red marks on your skin – it isn’t you. It also isn’t forever. One day, it will all go away, and you will still be you – minus the red marks. That’s why I keep telling acne sufferers they’re still beautiful.”