A Little-Known Corner of Ireland Beckons

Less than an hour from Cork airport, but hidden from the main tourist paths, the Blackwater Valley in Ireland is immersed in the natural splendor and the Romance of the Old World. The area receives its name from the Blackwater, a deep and fast river that flows through the green landscape before joining the Atlantic Ocean in the medieval city of Youghal.

Flanked by the Knockmealdown mountains to the north and blown by the fresh winds that leave the sea, the valley has its own microclimate, where the vegetation becomes rich and lush, from the old forests and the grass is so splaced.

In addition to its natural beauty, the area is known for its reference points that range from Castillos to follies and a cultural scene. It is worth deviating if you are planning a trip to Ireland.

One of the most popular places to stay near is Ballymaloe House, home at the Ballymaloe Cook School. Many of Ireland’s best chefs were formed here, and Hannah Neleman, or the fame of the Ballerina farm, recently spent three months doing a cooking course there: Roman is traditional and comfortable and cost from € 280 Aight (about $ 318), Denning in the season. Or go to the Castlemartyr resort of 220 acres (rooms of € 233 per night), a five -star hotel located in a large stately house right next to a ruined castle. It is the perfect basis to explore the region and is a destination in its own right, with seven gastronomic options, including a traditional Irish pub, The Huited High.

Castlemartyr is an example of what is called in Ireland as large “large” field housing built by rich Angloirlands uproots between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries. In many parts of the country, they have burned or bone to decay and mold, but here, they are still inhabited and, in part, because a cohort or newcomers.

Lisore Castle is in the heart of the Blackwater Valley, both geographically and culturally. This imposing Gothic building is approaching the banks of the river, presenting a silhouette that is so dramatic and beautiful that it seems that it is escaped from a film. It is the Irish seat of the Dukes of Devonshire, who also has Chatsworth, one of the largest properties in England. His former inhabitants include Adelaire, Fred Astaire’s older sister and one of the most famous vaodevil stars of her time. It was a family name in the 1920s and 1930s, before retiring from the stage to marry Charles Cavendish, the second son of the ninth Duke of Devonshire. Duration of his time like Chatlaine, modernized the house, went out to walk and maintained a pet goat.

If you lead to Lisore, stop at Ballysagartmore Towers, an extraordinary couple or what the Gothic door cabins collapse that seem like castles of miniature fairy tales. Surrounded by forests, without other buildings in sight, thesis follies are free to visit. Prepare for a walk: The path is 1.5 miles, with difficult roads.

One of the main cultural events in the region is the Blackwater Valley Opera Festival, which extends every summer and attracts musical fans around the world to listen to high quality productions in a collection of notable places. These include some of the best country houses in the area, as well as the former Cathedral of San Carthage in the city of Lisore.

The festival includes about 20 events over a week, with approximately 5,000 visitors in total. “The big tie is to have Lisore Castle as a main place,” said Susie Wingfield, a resident. “It is an incredible outdoor scenario for an opera, particularly in the event. In addition, all recitals are in private houses and churches, which feels very special and intimate.”

In spring, the West Waterford Drama Festival takes place in the small town of Ballyduff, when the main fans theater groups in Ireland converge in the local hall and put on the type of productions that you would expect to see in Dublin or Cork.

No trip to the Blackwater valley would be complete without a visit to Ardore, a small fishing town on the backed coast. Despite having a population of less than 500 people, it has one of Thrare Michelin’s restaurants in Ireland on the outskirts of Dublin, House. Within the Cliff House Hotel, where the rooms cost from € 269 per night, including breakfast, the restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday and focuses on local ingredients with a particular emphasis on seafood, in a wink to Ardore’s sea. It remains on the tasting menu of seven dishes (€ 150 per person) before sinking in one of the highly comfortable beds of the hotel, where you will be lulled to sleep for the sound of the waves that crash against the cliffs.

The next day, spend one morning exploring the town, starting with a walk through the Ruins de la Torre and Cathedral of the Round of the 12th century. Pass by Ardore Pottery & Gallery, a family business that sells ceramics and contemporary pieces of Irish manufacturers. You can also visit the study on the site, where you will see that mud pots are made by hand. If the weather is fine, there are many sand beaches: Curragh Beach and Whiting Bay are the two main ones.

Literary types can attend a creative writing workshop in Molly Keane Writers Retreats (a three -day course is € 350), where the old Angloirlandic author’s house opens regularly to loan creatives. Keane was a famous author and playwright with a long career, starting in the 1920s before finding late success almost 60 years later, when her novel “Good Behavioure” was preselected for the 1981 Booker Prize. McCarthy lives in the nearby city of Cappoquin.

Molly Keane’s daughter, Virginia Brownnow, still calls Blackwater Valley her home, despite having lived in both Dublin and London. When asked what keeps her in this rural corner of Ireland, her response was simple: “Her beauty. It is such a lyrical and charming place.”

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